Is your fountain pen skipping, stuttering, or refusing to write? These issues are often caused by dried ink, paper fibers, or debris blocking the ink flow. Fixing it is easier than you think. Here’s a quick summary of the process:
- Gather Supplies: You’ll need room-temperature water, a lint-free cloth, paper towels, and optionally, a bulb syringe or mild dish soap.
- Flush with Water: Push water through the nib and feed until it runs clear.
- Soak the Nib and Feed: Submerge the nib (or section) in water to dissolve stubborn residue.
- Clean by Hand: Use a soft brush or your fingers to remove any remaining buildup.
- Reassemble and Test: Dry all parts thoroughly, reassemble, and test the ink flow with fresh ink.
Pro Tip: Regular cleaning every 1–2 weeks can prevent clogs and keep your pen writing smoothly. For stubborn clogs, a bulb syringe or commercial pen flush can make the process easier.
Want the details? Let’s dive into each step to restore your pen’s performance.
How to clean a fountain pen. Several methods. Also for dried up pens 🖋
Step 1: Gather Your Cleaning Supplies
Before diving into cleaning your pen, take a moment to gather everything you'll need. Having your tools ready and within reach will save you from scrambling around while handling wet or inky parts. Most of these items are things you likely already have at home, and the few specialized tools can be easily found at supermarkets, pharmacies, or pen retailers without breaking the bank.
What You'll Need
For routine clogs, plain cool or lukewarm water is often all you need. Many experienced pen users find that water alone - or, if necessary, water with a single drop of mild dish detergent - is enough to clear most blockages. This means you can skip elaborate cleaning chemicals in most cases.
Your basic cleaning kit should include the following:
- Room-temperature water: Use distilled water if your tap water is hard.
- Lint-free cloth: Microfiber or smooth cotton works well.
- Paper towels: Handy for blotting excess water or ink.
- Small cup or bowl: Glass or ceramic options are ideal since they allow you to see the ink being flushed out.
If you're cleaning cartridge or converter pens, a bulb syringe can be incredibly useful. It pushes water through the pen's section with more force than a converter alone. These syringes are easy to find at pharmacies and cost just a few dollars. Be cautious, though - bulb syringes can create a tight seal, so hold the pen section securely to avoid any unexpected mishaps.
For cartridge users, an ink converter is also helpful for a thorough flush.
If you're dealing with stubborn clogs from dried or heavily saturated inks, you might need a commercial pen flush or a solution of water with just one drop of mild dish detergent. Use these sparingly and only when plain water doesn’t do the job. Avoid harsh household cleaners like alcohol or ammonia unless specifically recommended in very small amounts for your pen type. Always check compatibility with your pen's materials before trying these solutions.
Once you’ve gathered your supplies, set up a clean and protected workspace to get started.
Preparing Your Workspace
Choose a stable, flat surface near a sink or another source of clean water for your cleaning station. Protect the area with paper towels, a plastic tray, a silicone mat, or an old towel to catch any drips and shield surfaces from ink stains.
Arrange all your tools - pen, cup of water, bulb syringe, cloth, and paper towels - within arm’s reach. This way, you won’t have to fumble for supplies while handling wet or inky pen parts. Good lighting is also key; it helps you spot residual ink in areas like the feed or threads, making it easier to know when the flushing process is complete. Keep a trash can or disposable bag nearby for quick cleanup of used paper towels and other waste.
Using a tray, shallow dish, or organizer can help keep small parts like nibs, feeds, and converters together. Lining the tray with a damp paper towel or soft cloth can cushion these components and keep them from sliding around. To avoid confusion, clean one pen at a time and keep all its pieces grouped together.
Before using any detergent or hot water, double-check your pen’s material compatibility. Disassemble the pen only as the manufacturer recommends - forcing parts apart can lead to cracks or damaged feeds. If you’re unsure, consult the pen maker or a specialist repair service.
Whether you’re cleaning a treasured heirloom or a trusty everyday pen, setting up your workspace with care ensures a smooth process and helps restore your pen’s ink flow while protecting your tools and surfaces.
Step 2: Flush the Nib and Feed with Water
The next step in restoring your fountain pen’s ink flow is flushing out the ink and debris. Using plain, room-temperature water, this process clears dried ink and particles by pushing water through the feed channels.
Rinsing Out Ink Residue
The goal here is simple: move clean water through the same path the ink usually takes - from the reservoir, through the feed, and out the nib. While the exact method may vary depending on your pen’s filling system, the principle remains the same: flush repeatedly until the water runs clear.
For cartridge-converter pens, start by removing the ink cartridge or converter. Empty any leftover ink into a sink or cup. Fill a cup with 2–4 oz (60–120 ml) of room-temperature water, and use the converter to draw and expel water through the nib. Repeat this process 5–10 times, or until the water expelled is mostly clear instead of heavily tinted.
For piston-fillers or vacuum-fillers, submerge the nib and feed in water, then operate the filling mechanism several times. Continue until the water you expel is clear. As The Gentleman Stationer suggests, flushing a pen by running plain water through its filling system "5 or 6 times" is usually sufficient for general cleaning.
Another option is to rinse the nib and feed under a gentle stream of cool tap water. Hold the nib downward under the stream for 10–30 seconds, allowing water to flow from the section base to the nib tip. This helps remove surface ink and loose particles without forcing water into areas that shouldn’t get wet. Avoid using high water pressure or hot water.
Refresh the water whenever it becomes noticeably tinted, usually every 3–5 flushes if there’s heavy ink buildup. This prevents dissolved ink from re-entering the feed and lets you track your progress.
If, after 10–15 flushes, ink still flows heavily, the feed is likely still saturated. In this case, move on to Step 3 for a deeper soak. It’s normal for some faint color to remain after flushing, as soaking will help dissolve the remaining dried ink within the feed channels.
Using a Bulb Syringe for Stubborn Clogs
For clogs that aren’t cleared by the pen’s internal filling system - or for blockages deep in the feed - a bulb syringe can be a game-changer. This tool delivers a more focused stream of water compared to a converter or piston. A 2-oz bulb syringe is a popular choice for its balance of capacity and control.
To use a bulb syringe, first remove the ink cartridge or converter from the pen’s section. Fill the syringe with clean, room-temperature water. Then, press the syringe tip firmly against the back of the nib section (where the cartridge or converter would normally attach). Hold the nib over a sink or bowl and gently squeeze the bulb, forcing water through the feed and out of the nib. Repeat this process several times, refilling the syringe with fresh water as needed, until the water coming out runs clear.
Hold the pen section securely while squeezing the bulb. The syringe creates a tight seal, so avoid using excessive pressure, which could send the section flying or push water into areas it shouldn’t reach.
Bulb syringes are especially helpful for cartridge-converter pens when the converter doesn’t provide enough force, or for pens with dried ink buildup from prolonged neglect. If you’re dealing with a hooded nib (like those on the Lamy 2000 or Parker 51) or a tightly packed feed, you may need to flush several times to fully clear the clog. Keep at it with fresh water until you see progress.
Once the water runs clear, you’re ready to move on to soaking the nib and feed for deeper cleaning.
Step 3: Soak the Nib and Feed
If flushing hasn’t completely cleared the clog, it’s time to step things up. Soaking helps dissolve stubborn dried ink that flushing alone can’t dislodge. Before you start, check whether your pen’s design allows you to remove the nib and feed without tools. If it does, you can soak these parts separately for better results.
For pens with easily removable nibs and feeds - a feature often found in modern steel nibs or certain Indian and German nib units - take them apart and soak them individually. This ensures water reaches all the ink-covered surfaces. However, if the nib and feed are friction-fit and you’re unsure how to remove them, or if the manufacturer advises against disassembly, leave the nib and feed in place. Soak the entire nib/section assembly instead to avoid accidental damage. Vintage pens, hooded nibs, or pens with intricate internal mechanisms should also be soaked as a whole unless you’re confident in your repair skills.
Place the nib and feed (or the entire nib/section unit) in a shallow glass or cup. Make sure the metal nib and feed are fully submerged while keeping the pen body and decorative parts dry.
Choosing the Right Soaking Solution
Start with plain distilled water at room temperature. Distilled water avoids leaving behind mineral deposits. Never use hot water, as it can damage sensitive parts like feeds, seals, or finishes. Also, steer clear of alcohol or harsh solvents, which can harm your pen.
If plain water doesn’t work after an hour or two - especially with heavily pigmented or saturated inks - add a small drop of mild dish detergent (like Dawn) to a large glass of water. The detergent helps the water break through dried ink more effectively. Alternatively, try a commercial pen flush, following the directions on the label. Most pen flushes recommend soaking for 15–30 minutes before rinsing with clean water.
For particularly stubborn clogs, and only on compatible pens, you can use a mild ammonia solution. Mix 1 teaspoon of clear household ammonia with 1 cup (8 fl oz) of water. Let the nib and feed soak for several hours or overnight, then rinse thoroughly. However, avoid ammonia if your pen has copper, brass, or aluminum parts, as it can cause corrosion or discoloration.
Always begin with the gentlest method - plain water - and only escalate to detergent, pen flush, or ammonia if absolutely necessary.
How Long to Soak
The length of time needed depends on how severe the clog is:
- Light clogs: 10–30 minutes
- Moderate clogs: 1–3 hours
- Severe clogs: Overnight (8–12 hours)
Occasionally agitate the water and replace it if it becomes dark with dissolved ink. If the water stays clear, the clog is likely gone.
For pens with delicate finishes - like celluloid, ebonite, wood, or heavily plated metals - limit soaking to 1–2 hours at a time to avoid discoloration or dulling. Vintage lever-fill or sac-fill pens should only be submerged up to the nib and grip section. Submerging the sac or metal lever assemblies can lead to corrosion or damage to rubber parts. Pens with hooded nibs or intricate mechanisms (such as certain Parker or Lamy models) are better suited to shorter soaks combined with repeated flushing, rather than extended soaking.
After soaking, flush the nib and feed with clean water until the water runs clear. This removes any remaining ink, detergent, or pen flush. Gently pat the parts dry with a lint-free cloth or paper towel, and let them air-dry completely before reassembling the pen.
For those in the U.S. who rotate through multiple affordable pens, making soaking a regular part of your maintenance routine can prevent clogs from becoming a headache. If you’re often dealing with hard-to-clean pens, consider brands like Fountain Pen Revolution. They offer affordable fountain pens (often under $20), replacement nibs, and inks, making it easy to experiment with pens that are simple to disassemble and maintain. This can save time and effort for both beginners and seasoned users.
With the ink loosened by soaking, you can now move on to hand-cleaning the nib and feed in the next step.
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Step 4: Clean the Nib and Feed by Hand
After soaking the nib and feed, it’s time to tackle any stubborn ink buildup by hand. While soaking loosens most of the residue, some inks - like shimmer, iron gall, or highly saturated varieties - can cling on even after an extended soak. This step ensures your nib and feed are completely free of debris.
Start by rinsing the nib and feed under a stream of cool water. Hold the nib so the water flows from the breather hole or section end toward the tip - this helps flush out particles lodged in the feed channels. Gently wipe the nib surface and underside with your fingertips, but don’t apply pressure that could bend the tines. Place the nib on a paper towel and blot it lightly. Check for any trapped ink in the slit or around the feed fins. Repeat rinsing and blotting until the water runs clear and no ink transfers to the towel.
For most dye-based inks, plain water works fine. If residue persists, add a drop of dish soap to the water, then rinse thoroughly. Leftover residue in the feed can disrupt ink flow or even cause foaming inside the pen.
Cleaning with a Soft Brush
A soft-bristled toothbrush is an excellent tool for cleaning fountain pen nibs and feeds. Other good options include interdental brushes (micro-brushes) or artist’s brushes with soft synthetic bristles. These tools are gentle enough to avoid scratching plated or polished metal surfaces. Use the toothbrush for the nib’s top and underside, while micro-brushes are ideal for cleaning between the feed fins and around the breather hole.
Avoid using stiff or abrasive brushes, such as brass-bristle brushes or nail brushes with hard plastic bristles, as these can damage the nib’s finish or deform the feed. Also, steer clear of brushes that have been used with soap, cleaning chemicals, or pigment paints, as residues can contaminate your pen and affect its performance.
To clean, hold the nib and feed over a shallow dish of clean water. Dip the brush so it’s damp but not dripping. Use light, short strokes along the nib in the direction of the tines to avoid bending them. On the underside, gently brush across and between the feed fins to remove dried ink. Rinse the brush periodically in clean water as it picks up ink. Use only minimal pressure - think of it as brushing your teeth gently.
Check your progress frequently. Once no ink appears in the rinse water or on the bristles, stop brushing. Blot the nib dry with a lint-free cloth or paper towel, avoiding any rubbing that could snag the nib slit or tines. This careful brushing ensures the nib and feed are completely clean and ready for reassembly, whether your pen uses a cartridge/converter, piston, or eyedropper system.
Working with Non-Removable Feeds
If your pen has a non-removable feed, focus on flushing and gentle external cleaning. Do not try to force out the nib or feed if the manufacturer didn’t design it for user removal - this could crack the section or misalign the nib. Pens with hooded or semi-hooded nibs, like the Parker 51 or Lamy 2000, are especially tricky to clean manually because the feed is partially enclosed.
Instead of disassembling, remove the cartridge or converter and flush water through the section repeatedly, as described in Step 2, until the water runs clear. Between flushes, tap the section gently on a paper towel to loosen trapped water or particles. Continue flushing until there’s no trace of ink.
You can still brush exposed nib surfaces and the visible parts of the feed, but avoid using tools or hard brushes to reach tightly enclosed areas. For hooded-nib designs or vintage models, longer soaking and additional flush cycles are often more effective than attempting mechanical cleaning.
You’ll know the cleaning is complete when three things happen: water flushed through the pen runs clear for several cycles, no ink residue transfers to a paper towel when blotting the nib and feed, and feed channels and fins look clean under good lighting. Some highly saturated or permanent inks may leave a faint stain on plastic feeds, but as long as the rinse water runs clear and no fresh ink appears during blotting, the pen is clean.
Fountain Pen Revolution pens are great for practicing these cleaning methods, as they’re budget-friendly and easy to maintain. Once you’ve mastered this process, you can confidently care for your entire pen collection.
With the nib and feed now spotless, you’re ready to dry the parts and move on to reassembling your pen.
Step 5: Reassemble and Test Your Pen
Reassemble your pen only after it has completely dried to ensure the fresh ink performs as intended.
Drying and Reassembling the Pen
Residual water can dilute fresh ink, leading to weak flow, faint writing, or even new clogs as the watery ink struggles to pass through the feed. To avoid this, let the nib section dry thoroughly. Place it nib-down on a lint-free paper towel for 2–4 hours, or ideally overnight. Avoid using heat to speed up the process. Some people like to gently dab the nib with a clean paper towel first to remove surface moisture before setting it to dry.
Never use heat sources like hair dryers. Heat can warp plastic feeds, damage delicate nib tines, or even crack older materials like celluloid or hard rubber.
Before reassembling, confirm the nib is dry by pressing it against a white paper towel. If no water droplets appear, it’s ready. You can also test by drawing a few strokes on scrap paper - if water beads up instead of being absorbed, more drying time is needed.
When the nib section is fully dry, screw it back into the barrel until snug. Be cautious not to over-tighten, as this could crack the section or strip the threads, especially in vintage or fragile pens. If the parts don’t fit smoothly, stop and check the alignment rather than forcing them together.
Once reassembled, insert a fresh cartridge or converter and refill with high-quality fountain pen ink. Avoid using ballpoint or gel pen inks, as well as India ink, which can clog the feed and cause permanent damage.
Testing Ink Flow and Performance
After reassembly, it’s time to test how the pen performs. Use scrap paper and apply light to medium pressure while writing. Heavy pressure can damage the nib and mask potential flow issues. Write continuous strokes at different angles to ensure smooth and even ink flow.
Pay close attention to the consistency of the lines. The ink should appear evenly saturated without fading or railroading (when only the edges of the stroke show ink). Write a few sentences in your usual handwriting to see if the pen performs well under normal use.
If the ink flow is weak or inconsistent, repeat the soaking and flushing steps. For particularly stubborn clogs, try adding a single drop of dish detergent to lukewarm water and flush the pen again. Another handy method is using the converter as a flushing tool: fill a container with lukewarm water, draw water into the converter through the nib, and push it out. Repeat this process 5–6 times. For pens with hooded nibs or intricate feed designs, an ultrasonic cleaner can help reach all internal components.
Once your pen writes smoothly and consistently, you’re good to go. To maintain this performance, establish a regular cleaning routine. For pens used frequently, flush them with plain water every 1–2 weeks by running water through the filling system 5–6 times. If you plan to store a pen for an extended period, clean it thoroughly before storage and again before use. Always keep your pen capped when not in use to prevent the nib from drying out, and store it horizontally or nib-up to avoid ink pooling in the feed.
If you’re new to pen maintenance, consider practicing on budget-friendly models like those from Fountain Pen Revolution. These pens are an excellent way to build confidence in cleaning and care without the fear of damaging an expensive pen. Once you’ve mastered these techniques, you’ll be ready to maintain any fountain pen in your collection.
Conclusion
Cleaning a fountain pen is simpler than you might think. All it takes are a few basic supplies and five clear steps: gather what you need, flush the pen, soak it, clean it by hand, and reassemble it carefully. Each step ensures your pen gets the gentle care it needs.
Beyond cleaning, regular upkeep is key to avoiding future clogs. Simple habits like capping your pen when not in use, flushing it weekly, and sticking to high-quality ink can go a long way. If you enjoy experimenting with saturated, shimmering, or waterproof inks, a quick flush between color changes will help prevent residue from building up inside the pen.
You’ll know your cleaning efforts worked when the pen writes smoothly and consistently, producing a line that matches the nib’s size. However, if cleaning no longer restores proper flow, it might be time to consider a replacement. For pens with severe staining, cracked feeds, or damaged nibs, replacing parts - or even the entire pen - can be more practical than repeated repairs. Entry-level pens with steel nibs, for example, are often more economical to replace than to repair professionally.
If you’re looking for affordable replacements, Fountain Pen Revolution offers a variety of options. With fountain pens starting at just $11.00 and reasonably priced nibs, ink, and accessories, they make it easy to keep your writing tools in top shape without overspending. Plus, free shipping on U.S. orders over $65.00 makes stocking up on supplies hassle-free.
Whether you’re caring for a cherished pen or practicing on a more budget-friendly model, these steps will help ensure your fountain pens write effortlessly for years to come.
FAQs
How often should I clean my fountain pen to keep it from clogging?
To keep your fountain pen in top shape and avoid clogs, aim to clean it every 4-6 weeks if it's part of your daily routine. If you like to switch ink colors often or notice any hiccups with the ink flow, you’ll want to clean it more frequently. For pens that don’t see regular use, it’s best to clean them before storing and again when you’re ready to use them.
Routine cleaning not only ensures smooth writing but also extends the life of your pen. Use lukewarm water or a pen-safe cleaning solution to flush out any dried ink or residue. Just steer clear of hot water - it can harm some of the pen’s delicate parts.
What should I do if my fountain pen still doesn’t write smoothly after cleaning it?
If your fountain pen still isn’t gliding smoothly across the page after a thorough cleaning, there are a few other steps you can take to get it back in working order:
- Check the nib alignment: A misaligned nib can disrupt ink flow. Carefully examine the nib to ensure the tines are evenly aligned. If they’re not, gentle adjustments might do the trick.
- Prime the feed: Sometimes, dipping the nib and feed into ink can help restart the flow, especially if the pen feels dry or scratchy.
- Look for stubborn clogs: Even after cleaning, tiny particles or dried ink might still be causing blockages. Try soaking the nib and feed in lukewarm water for a few hours. For a deeper clean, you can use a bulb syringe to flush out any lingering debris.
If none of these steps solve the issue, it might be time to seek professional assistance. At Fountain Pen Revolution, we provide affordable replacement nibs and tools to help keep your pen performing at its best - whether you’re just starting out or you’ve been collecting for years.
What types of ink are more likely to clog a fountain pen?
Some inks are more likely to cause clogs in fountain pens. For instance, highly pigmented inks, shimmer inks, or those containing particles can build up in the feed or nib over time. Inks that dry out quickly can also be a problem, especially if the pen isn’t used regularly.
To avoid clogs, stick to fountain pen-safe inks and make regular cleaning part of your routine. If you enjoy using specialty inks, like shimmer or heavily pigmented ones, be sure to clean your pen more often to keep it in good working order.